CHAMOIS OR BRUSHED COTTON MOLTON AS LINING MATERIAL FOR MAP POCKET?
In War Office specification (List of Changes and tailoring contracts issued in early 1942), it is describes the chamois following way: "Pocket, map lined with chamois leather."; "A thin but supple chamois skin cut to the same shape as the pocket bag.". This data gives us information that the inside part of the pocket in 1942 was fully lined by chamois and we are sure that this system of production was not changed in 1944 when the chamois was simply replaced by heavy white cotton molton. So, both materials were placed in inside area of the map pocket under the same construction including vertical cotton twill stripe sewed on the inner side of the front wool part of the pocket.
There is no information about the exact color or other parameters of the chamois in specification. Considering the practical experiences, the thickness of each delivered chamois could be slightly different, especially from 0.6 mm to 2 mm and can originate from various types of animals as sheep, beef-cattle, deer, but the mostly from goats. The color could be various from natural leather color shade via dead-white and beige color, to tan even light brown color as it was delivered by different manufactures especially by small businesses and it seems to be that it was one important reason why the deliveries were not periodical, and this situation ended in 1944 by substitution of chamois with the white heavy brushed cotton molton.
The second reason why chamois was replaced by cotton fabric could be a technological difficulty during production as there are some types of chamois that cannot be safely ironed or decatorized by hot steam what is critical for speeding up lane sewing process (production) especially in the war time production. Simply said some variants of chamois are not resisting very well with hot wet environment even with indirect hot steam and can be easily damaged or destroyed during production.
The intention to use chamois as lining material for map pocket was prevention of rattling noises (important in concealment), reduced wear from folding/unfolding paper documents or maps, and better grip so the maps wouldn´t slip out. Also chamois helped to protect paper items from sweat and moisture but from the practical point of view this function can be very well replaced by heavy natural brushed cotton molton that was later introduced by manufacturers.